Početna Where to Climb Reovačka greda
Print PDF

Reovačka greda (Locations)

reovacka_1

The ridge of Reovačka greda with its highest peak Pazua, along with the Subra Amphitheatre is considered to be the most striking part of the massif, and apart from that the wildest one as well. On Reovačka greda the south face, especially the section below Pazua, its main peak, is the one which is interesting in terms of trad climbing. The rock is of an excellent quality, white limestone with the height ranging from 200 to 350 metres. There is only one ascended route so far- 350 m, V-/IV/III. It was climbed by Bojan and Vanja from the OCP in May 2009.

How to get there, approach and descent.                      reovacka_2

Reovačka greda as one of the rather remote areas of Mt Orjen massif, inaccessible and far away from the usual mountain trails, is a rarely visited mountain. The best and easiest approach to this crag is from the direction of Crkvice, and it takes a 90 minute hike to get from there to the base of the rock following the markations. Crkvice is about 120kms far from Podgorica and it can be reached along the travel route Podgorica - Nikšic - Vilusi - Grahovo - Dragalj - Crkvice or from Risan ( Boka Kotorska ) towards Grahovo; from that road one should turn to Crkvice. By the remains of the old Austrian bakery in Crkvice one should turn right onto the macadam road, then along it some 5 to 6 kilometres to the clearly marked fork for Reovački dolovi. From Dolovi a marked trail leads to the exit to the ridge. The best descent after climbing is along this trail.

Important: There is only one spring in the whole area - Studenac and it is situated at the foot of the southern couloir. The trail leading from the dales to the ridge runs past it. To reach it you'll need a 40 minute hike over a difficult terrain. Mountaineers from Herceg Novi, who know this mountain much better than us, claim that the spring has never dried up although it doesn't provide plenty of water.

Where to sleep

Bring your tents along. You can sleep in Reovački dolovi where there is no water, but there is comfort, or below the southern couloir, where there is a little or none of the space for tents, but there is water...and vipers! The choice is yours.

Climbing season

The rocks of Reovacka greda are oriented southwards, so the best time for climbing is in spring(the end of April, May) and in autumn(September, October)