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> Mammut Alpine Smart review
post Feb 7 2011, 11:04 PM
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After a long wait from seeing this device at last years Outdoor Retailer, I finally got my hands on one. This device has no moving parts, yet "autolocks" belaying and rapelling, although Mammut advirtises it as "assisted" instead of autolocking. The device locks up like a charm and releases very easily, but there is a very small amount of slippage I noticed. To me, this is fine, since after the device locks up, you'd have to be asleep or unconscious to not be on task! With this belay device you can TR belay, lead belay (with 2 ropes), bring up the second(s) (again with two ropes) autolock style, and rapell two ropes with the added bonus of it auto-locking if you let go. To me the rappel back-up is the crowing glory of this belay device. The added benefit of rappel safety, I think, should make this an essential piece of gear on routes with any sort of involved rappel. One more thing it can do, but it is not advertised and I cannot recommend it because I don't want anyone getting hurt...I have rope-soloed with it and it worked awesome. In fact I like it better than anything out there for rope-soloing!
Pros: autolocking belay for leading and seconding, 2-rope capabilities, autolock on rapell, rope-soloing (again DANGER! it is not intended for this use!), worlds lighter than the gri-gri or similar devices, can accommodate a wide range of rope sizes.
Cons: Heavy for just regular belaying/rapelling, and lead belays poorly (stiff!) with thick ropes (10.5mm). Small amount of slip (only an issue if you get knocked unconscious, and the slip was minimal and usually stopped after an inch or two).
Consider this on my rack from now on except at the gym with their stiff ropes, or belaying fat rope aid pitches.

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