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Montenegroclimbing.net Forum _ Free climbing _ Kamp sportskog penjanja, Prokletije 26.04 - 06.05

Posted by: vanja Apr 22 2008, 04:03 PM

Njemacka organizacija koja radi i djeluje sirom svijeta, GTZ, odn. njihova kancelarija u Podgorici, u saradnji sa odredjenim njemackim turistickim organizacijama i sportskim penjacima iz Njemacke, organizuje kamp sporstkog penjanja u gore navedenom terminu na Prokletijama, ciji je cilj promovisanje turistickih destinacija na sjeveru Crne Gore. Program kampa predvidja opremanje sportskih smjerova na 4 lokacije u okolini Gusinja i uredjivanje pristupnih staza. Cijena smjestaja u kampu koji ce biti organizovan u bungalovima je 6 evra dan/osoba, tri obroka dnevno kostace 10/12 evra dan/osoba.
Ako neko vec nije isplanirao svoje slobodne dane u vrijeme praznika i zeli da ide nek mi se javi na PM za kontakt i vise informacija.


Posted by: Yoko Ono Apr 22 2008, 04:17 PM

koji praznici? (prvi maj?)
koliko dana sve skupa?

Posted by: vanja Apr 22 2008, 05:51 PM

QUOTE(Yoko Ono @ Apr 22 2008, 04:17 PM) *
koji praznici? (prvi maj?)
koliko dana sve skupa?


datumi su navedeni u naslovu topika

Posted by: Yoko Ono Apr 23 2008, 10:58 AM

ništa od mene
...
some other time perhaps dry.gif

Posted by: losmi Apr 23 2008, 11:33 AM

Ma zovu nas da volontiramo,
a da placamo smjestaj i hranu
Zar ne kontaju da mogu u sator i sa konzervama tamo biti za 11 puta manje para.
To im nije palo na pamet.
Kraljevi.

Zato kad se oni razidju 6 maja onda cemo tamo.

Posted by: Yoko Ono Apr 23 2008, 07:21 PM

taj Lošmi...

uvijek izLošmuje nešto

ostani takav cool.gif

Posted by: vanja May 9 2008, 04:31 PM

Tokom praznika u okolini Gusinja opremljeno je oko 60 sportskih smjeri raznih tezina.Zaista,rezultat za respekt.nadam se da cemo uskoro dobiti vise informacija.
pozdrav

Posted by: Zoka May 16 2008, 03:03 AM

Puno posla ...
Mogu misliti kako je atraktivno. Ipak opremiti 60 smjerova uzme puno vremena.
Cestitke na ulozenom trudu.
Z

Posted by: gerald krug May 27 2008, 05:05 PM

Hi there,
the new climbing spot at Gusinje (some kilometres from Plav) is ready for climbers now. We (the german working group) who opened the new lines wish all users from Montenegro and all other countries fun climbing the new routes.
You will find a guidebook at www.geoquest-verlag.de under Reiseinfos und Expeditionen at the very end of the report (in german language) where you can see the link mentioning pdf.
The english version of the report and the guidebook is under preparation.
Many greetings from Germany wink.gif
Gerald Krug

Posted by: vanja May 27 2008, 06:26 PM

QUOTE(gerald krug @ May 27 2008, 05:05 PM) *
Hi there,
the new climbing spot at Gusinje (some kilometres from Plav) is ready for climbers now. We (the german working group) who opened the new lines wish all users from Montenegro and all other countries fun climbing the new routes.
You will find a guidebook at www.geoquest-verlag.de under Reiseinfos und Expeditionen at the very end of the report (in german language) where you can see the link mentioning pdf.
The english version of the report and the guidebook is under preparation.
Many greetings from Germany wink.gif
Gerald Krug


Hi Gerald,
congratulations to you and your team for a great job!! Finally we have more infos about routes in Gusinje. What part of guide can we use and publish on our web site? I am sure you understand how important is to promote this crag. Since we published news about climbing camp in Prokletije, we received great number mails of climbers from Serbia, Bosnia, Croatia where they were asking for more infos.
I would like, also, to inform you about new crag in Kolasin, where 5 climbers from Austria and 6 from Outdoor club, equiped 31 routes. More information soon.
best.
Vanja

Posted by: Bojan May 27 2008, 07:00 PM

Dobro obavljen posao u Gusinju Vale ima smjerova i do 60 metara.Svaka im cast!
U svakom slucaju sad kad god nas put ponese u pravcu Gusinja nosimo i opremu sa sobom!Bice penjanja ko salate laugh.gif

Posted by: Prey Jun 5 2008, 01:02 AM

Drugari da li neko zna koliko ima od planinarskog doma do penjalista?nadam se brzom odgovoru.hvala

Posted by: vanja Jun 5 2008, 09:31 AM

QUOTE(Prey @ Jun 5 2008, 01:02 AM) *
Drugari da li neko zna koliko ima od planinarskog doma do penjalista?nadam se brzom odgovoru.hvala


Planinarski domovi su u Grbaji.Jedan od njih je u vlasnistvu Radnickog, kljuc se nalazi u stanici policije Gusinje, drugi je u vlasnistvu planinara iz Plava ili Gusinja i vise je zatvorenog tipa. U Grbaji je koliko se sjecam iz onog vodica, uradjeno jedno penjaliste sa manjim brojem smjerova.Najveci broj smjerova nalazi se na sektorima oko Alipasinih izvora. Od Grbaje do Gusinja ima 7,8 km i jos 2,3 od Gusinja do izvora.desetak km cini mi se.

Posted by: Prey Aug 10 2008, 03:07 AM

;

Posted by: vanja Aug 11 2008, 08:31 AM

QUOTE(Prey @ Aug 10 2008, 03:07 AM) *
Evo malog izvestaja sa Prokletija.

Za pocetak, odlicno penjaliste...


ja sam juce bio u Gusinju, istina samo na sektoru Ali pasini i ne dijelim tvoje misljenje, uostalom sa mnom je bilo i penjaca iz tvog kluba, dva dana smo penjali u Kolasinu, pa i njih mozes pitat za utiske, da ne bude da sam subjektivan.
pozdrav
vanja

Posted by: I van Aug 11 2008, 09:51 PM

Diplomatski, nema sta. Da ne znam sta si mislio da kazes, palo bi mi na pamet da ti je Sveto Marovic sastavljao saopstenje.

Posted by: vanja Aug 17 2008, 08:45 PM

U okolini Gusinja krajem avgusta krece opremanje novih 50 smjerova. Na opremanju ce raditi jedan od Njemaca koji je bio i prosli put u Gusinju i 8 tinejdzera.

Posted by: losmi Aug 17 2008, 08:53 PM

Oce li biti tinejdzerki?

Posted by: vanja Sep 2 2008, 06:34 PM

Penjaliste u okolini Gusinja bogatije je za jos 35 smjerova, sto sa ranije postavljenim smjerovima cini brojku od ukupno 100 smjerova. Jos uvijek nemamo detaljnije podatke jesu li otvarani novi sektori ili je radjeno samo na starim.

Posted by: vanja Oct 20 2008, 03:34 PM

konacno dobih nekoliko informacija o novim smjerovima. uradjeno je 35 novih smjerova u sektoru Ali pasini i 4 u novom sektoru Bojovici, medjutim, kako navode autori, stijena je krusljiva pa bas i ne preporucuju. jos uvijek nemam skice. Sa ovim, brojka smjerova u okolini Gusinja se popela na cca 100 smjerova!!! evo popisa smjerova po tezinama.

5a -3
5b -1
5c -5
6a/6a+ -7
6b/6b+ -8
6c/6c+ -5
7a/7a+ -4
7b/7b+ -2
7c/7c+ -3
8 -1

Posted by: losmi Nov 5 2008, 12:01 PM

I ja malo obidjoh ta penjalista. Nista posebno. Ne kazem da nema nekoliko dobrih smjerova, ali generalno vrlo lose i fuserajski uradjeno. Izgleda da je bilo vazno samo da stoji 100 smjerova, pa kako god se uradili. Razmak izmedju prvih nekolika boltova velik, dosta smjerova su bolderi od 4-5 metara koji su izboltovani. Mislim da je bilo bolje uraditi 30 smjerova kao sto su u Kolasinu ili na Smokovcu nego ih raditi 100 koji ne zasluzuju da se neko zamlati do gore da bi penjao.

Postavicu slike kad ih malo sredim...

Pozdrav, Milos

Posted by: vanja Nov 9 2008, 04:09 PM

pogledajte klip

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gxlmHP1Fag&feature=related

Posted by: Zoka Nov 9 2008, 07:36 PM

Jesi li ovo Ti, Vanja?

Posted by: vanja Nov 10 2008, 10:50 AM

hahahaha, dobra ti je fora Zoko

Posted by: lemmel Nov 28 2008, 06:55 AM

Hi folks,

I was one of those, who bolted new routes in Gusinje around August 2008 (see video posted from VANIA on 9.11.08 which was produced by myself). There are another video --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gxlmHP1Fag and many pictures: http://www.die-baerk.de/galerie/Montenegro/index.html

If you want some information regarding new route, do not hesitate asking me. There will be an update of the climbing guide book soon. I hope you have fun!

I have a question to all of us: We are planning to come back next year to Montenegro and would have some information on Prokletije. So do anybody of you have a mail - adress or a contact to the two serbian climbers Miloš Ivačković and Ivan Laković , who climbed there last year? (see http://www.extremesummitteam.com/english/treninzi/08_05_koplje.htm. We wanted to ask them about information of the route...

Best wishes from Berlin
LEMMEL

Posted by: vanja Nov 28 2008, 04:12 PM

Hallo Lemmel,
it looks that our forum slowly, slowly became international forum biggrin.gif
Milos Ivackovic is from Belgrade, Ivan lakovic is from Podgorica, one of the founders Outdoor club. I will send his e-mail on personal message, feel free to ask anything about Koplje, legendary route in MN, maybe you are going to wait a litle for answer, but you will get it.Until now, only 2 ascents, not yet free ascent, this could be challenge for you. There are many posibilities for first ascent routes in Prokletije, Maja Fort is not climbed, for example, that wall is more to the south from karanfili group, it is first "neighbour" od Karanfiili group divided by Ropojanska vrata pass. Djevojacka rock on the left side Ropojana valley not climbed too, oposite of that is rock Knjiga, one route only...Check Boljske grede, southern part of Durmitor, in Komarnica valley, 3,5 km wide, up to 700 m high,only few routes, better rock quality than in Prokletije, Helli Gargitter from South Tirol and his friends climbed there, Austrian group, ass well, topos are on our web page.
best regards, see you soon
Vanja


QUOTE(lemmel @ Nov 28 2008, 07:55 AM) *
Hi folks,

I was one of those, who bolted new routes in Gusinje around August 2008 (see video posted from VANIA on 9.11.08 which was produced by myself). There are another video --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gxlmHP1Fag and many pictures: http://www.die-baerk.de/galerie/Montenegro/index.html

If you want some information regarding new route, do not hesitate asking me. There will be an update of the climbing guide book soon. I hope you have fun!

I have a question to all of us: We are planning to come back next year to Montenegro and would have some information on Prokletije. So do anybody of you have a mail - adress or a contact to the two serbian climbers Miloš Ivačković and Ivan Laković , who climbed there last year? (see http://www.extremesummitteam.com/english/treninzi/08_05_koplje.htm). We wanted to ask them about information of the route...

Best wishes from Berlin
LEMMEL

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