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> Kamp sportskog penjanja, Prokletije 26.04 - 06.05
losmi
post Nov 5 2008, 12:01 PM
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I ja malo obidjoh ta penjalista. Nista posebno. Ne kazem da nema nekoliko dobrih smjerova, ali generalno vrlo lose i fuserajski uradjeno. Izgleda da je bilo vazno samo da stoji 100 smjerova, pa kako god se uradili. Razmak izmedju prvih nekolika boltova velik, dosta smjerova su bolderi od 4-5 metara koji su izboltovani. Mislim da je bilo bolje uraditi 30 smjerova kao sto su u Kolasinu ili na Smokovcu nego ih raditi 100 koji ne zasluzuju da se neko zamlati do gore da bi penjao.

Postavicu slike kad ih malo sredim...

Pozdrav, Milos


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Nije sve tako crno dok imas s' kim otic na pivo!
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vanja
post Nov 9 2008, 04:09 PM
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pogledajte klip

penjanje u Gusinju


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"Pod kojim uglom letis u nebesa pod tim te ceka hladna Trebjesa"
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Zoka
post Nov 9 2008, 07:36 PM
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Jesi li ovo Ti, Vanja?


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vanja
post Nov 10 2008, 10:50 AM
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hahahaha, dobra ti je fora Zoko


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lemmel
post Nov 28 2008, 06:55 AM
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Hi folks,

I was one of those, who bolted new routes in Gusinje around August 2008 (see video posted from VANIA on 9.11.08 which was produced by myself). There are another video --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gxlmHP1Fag and many pictures: http://www.die-baerk.de/galerie/Montenegro/index.html

If you want some information regarding new route, do not hesitate asking me. There will be an update of the climbing guide book soon. I hope you have fun!

I have a question to all of us: We are planning to come back next year to Montenegro and would have some information on Prokletije. So do anybody of you have a mail - adress or a contact to the two serbian climbers Miloš Ivačković and Ivan Laković , who climbed there last year? (see http://www.extremesummitteam.com/english/t..._05_koplje.htm). We wanted to ask them about information of the route...

Best wishes from Berlin
LEMMEL
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vanja
post Nov 28 2008, 04:12 PM
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Hallo Lemmel,
it looks that our forum slowly, slowly became international forum biggrin.gif
Milos Ivackovic is from Belgrade, Ivan lakovic is from Podgorica, one of the founders Outdoor club. I will send his e-mail on personal message, feel free to ask anything about Koplje, legendary route in MN, maybe you are going to wait a litle for answer, but you will get it.Until now, only 2 ascents, not yet free ascent, this could be challenge for you. There are many posibilities for first ascent routes in Prokletije, Maja Fort is not climbed, for example, that wall is more to the south from karanfili group, it is first "neighbour" od Karanfiili group divided by Ropojanska vrata pass. Djevojacka rock on the left side Ropojana valley not climbed too, oposite of that is rock Knjiga, one route only...Check Boljske grede, southern part of Durmitor, in Komarnica valley, 3,5 km wide, up to 700 m high,only few routes, better rock quality than in Prokletije, Helli Gargitter from South Tirol and his friends climbed there, Austrian group, ass well, topos are on our web page.
best regards, see you soon
Vanja


QUOTE(lemmel @ Nov 28 2008, 07:55 AM) *
Hi folks,

I was one of those, who bolted new routes in Gusinje around August 2008 (see video posted from VANIA on 9.11.08 which was produced by myself). There are another video --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gxlmHP1Fag and many pictures: http://www.die-baerk.de/galerie/Montenegro/index.html

If you want some information regarding new route, do not hesitate asking me. There will be an update of the climbing guide book soon. I hope you have fun!

I have a question to all of us: We are planning to come back next year to Montenegro and would have some information on Prokletije. So do anybody of you have a mail - adress or a contact to the two serbian climbers Miloš Ivačković and Ivan Laković , who climbed there last year? (see http://www.extremesummitteam.com/english/t..._05_koplje.htm). We wanted to ask them about information of the route...

Best wishes from Berlin
LEMMEL


--------------------
"Pod kojim uglom letis u nebesa pod tim te ceka hladna Trebjesa"
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